The Little Black Book of Style by Nina Garcia

The Little Black Book of Style

By Nina Garcia

Published by Harper Collins

This is following the presentation I gave at Billings Bridge Shopping Centre on April 28th, 2009, on how to be your own stylist based on the book The Little Black Book of Style by Nina Garcia. It is not a critique of the book, it simply lists the elements within it as a reference for the attendees of the seminar and the readers of the blog.

Be your own Muse:

• Clothes are what represent you.
• Be confident.
• Love yourself.
• Have a good attitude and let it reflect through.
• Dress the part you want to be.

Below there are the basic guidelines as described in the book.

Basics #1 – How to edit:

• Your closet should only contain amazing choices.
• It will inspire you to see a few great pieces than several that aren’t.
• Anything less shouldn’t be kept regardless of price or sentimental ties.
• Only keep what looks good on you.
• Buy YOUR size, not a size smaller because you will lose weight in 6 months.
• FYI; it takes 10 pounds to drop a size.
• Buy it in your size and what flatters your current body most.
• Don’t buy it because it’s on sale, buy it because you want it, if it’s a great deal at 50% off but you will never wear it, you just wasted your money.
• Don’t always go with safe choices, you’ll never be inspired or have fun with fashion.
• Don’t buy according to trends, if that trend doesn’t suit you, it won’t look good, buying what looks good on you is primordial.

Basic # 2 – Build your core:

• In other words, the essential staples that match with anything and everything.
• They are timeless and chic.
• They are your blank page that you build on.
• There is 10 of them.

1. The Little Black Dress (LBD).
2. A classic men’s white shirt.
3. Cashmere cardigan or turtleneck.
4. Denim.
5. A man’s classic watch.
6. Diamonds.
7. A classic high-heel pump.
8. A great bag:

• Tote or shoulder bag – for daytime and carrying everything.

• Clutch – for night and carrying nothing
• Medium-sized handbag with chain strap – for those times in between
• The must-have – Chanel 2.55, LV Speedy, Gucci Jackie O., Hermès Birkin

Basic # 3 – Buy with drama:

• Look for that unique, extravagant piece, the one that will make you standout.
• It should be something that you fall in love with almost immediately and you know you are meant to be.
• Make sure it is something that will resist time.
• It doesn’t have to correspond to a current trend but can easily incorporate into your wardrobe and make it appear updated
• Here is a list of items:

• An oversize cocktail ring
• Knock’em dead evening or cocktail dress
• A cuff
• Piece of fur
• Killer shoes
• Exotic bag
• Standout coat

Basic # 4 – Significance of shoes

• Invest in a good pair:

• Manolo Blahniks
• Christian Louboutin
• Roger Vivier
• Jimmy Choo
• Azzedine Alaia

Wear your size and ensure shoes are in good condition.

Show only 2 cracks.

Get a pedicure.

Make sure you can walk in the heels.

Don’t go above four inches unless you must (i.e. you adore the shoes and they only come in five inch heels).

Keep it tasteful.

Don’t do too high of a heel with a mini skirt, it will make you appear trampy.

You can never have enough shoes.

Basic # 5 – Accessory impact:

• They will pull an outfit together for you.
• They update your look without changing your clothes.
• They’re the start of an interesting conversation.
• Always keep your choices personal and tasteful
• Don’t overdo.
• Make sure you it’s unique, so it lasts and resists trends.

Basic # 6 – A good tailor:

• He/she can make any clothing item appear expensive.
• He/she can fit clothes to your body perfectly.
• He/she can revive old items – revamp it and update it.
• He/she can shorten the pant hemline while keeping the same cut.
• He/she can turn your vintage into a one-of-a-kind piece.
• He/she can rework and revive a fur coat.
• He/she can make anything you want.
  

Basic # 7 – Do not be a fashion victim:

• Avoid looking like a wannabe – having the “it” EVERYTHING.
• You don’t have to chop an arm and a leg to be in fashion.
• You can combine expensive items with cheaper items and still look stunning.

Basic # 8 – Fashion is not about the money:

• If fashion is expensive, style isn’t.
• Perfecting the art of mixing and knowing what to buy doesn’t mean you have to empty your bank account.
• Go to the flea market and get something unique that can be quite stylish.
• Try a discounted designer store such Winners or even hop into the Bay on Bay Days, they have great deals.

Basic # 9 – How to mix it up:

• Scared of combining 2 prints? Don’t be, a paisley and a plaid can mix as long as the colours and motif can compliment each other.
• Make it look effortless, if it’s too thought out, chances are it wasn’t successful.
• Opposites do attract;

• expensively cheap.
• vicious sweetness.
• basically funky.
• prep it up with edge.
• fierce, fun and flirty.
• lace up the leather.
• modernize a vintage.
• put the stripes in the plaid.
• preciously not.
• bring it up then down.

Basic # 10 – Imperfection

• It simply means, don’t try too hard at it.
• Highlight your imperfections to your benefit, through your clothes, accessories, hair, etc.
• Be well groomed, but make sure what you wear, speaks for you and expresses your personality.

Inspiration:

Get inspired from movies…

• Bringing Up Baby (1938):

Katherine Hepburn’s

• Pants.
• Mixing feminine with masculine.

• Sabrina (1954):

Audrey Hepburn’s

• Givenchy glam.
• The A-line gowns.
• Cocktail black dresses.

• To Catch a Thief (1955):

Grace Kelly’s

• Jewels.
• Blue chiffon.
• Ball gowns.

• And God Created Woman (1956):

Brigitte Bardot’s

• Gingham bikini.
• Pouty lips.
• Sensuality.

• Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1960):

Audrey Hepburn’s

• Oversized glasses.
• LBD.
• Pearl necklace.
• Gloves.

• Doctor Zhivago (1965):

Julie Christie’s

• Fur.
• Mid-length officer-style coat.
• Collared cuffed shirts.

• Belle de jour (1967):

Catherine Deneuve’s

• Shift dress.
• Coats.
• Roger Vivier’s pilgrim-style buckled pump.

• The Thomas Crown Affair (1968):

Faye Dunaway’s

• Her nails.
• Her eyelashes.
• Skirts.
• Perfectly structured and accessorized mini suits.
• White halter pleated mini dress.

• The Great Gatsby (1974):

Mia Farrow’s

• Cream and white flapper dresses.
• Long beads.
• Wide-brim hats.
• Pin-curl bob.

• Mahogany (1975):

Diana Ross’

• Retro designs colours
• Glitters
• White pantsuits
• 70’s turtlenecks.
• Big hair.

• Scarface (1983):

Michelle Pfeiffer’s

• Slinky.
• Shiny dresses.
• Huge coke-head sunglasses.
• Blond hair.

• Pulp Fiction (1994):

Uma Thurman’s

• Black Capri pants.
• White shirt.
• Black hair.

• In Mood for Love (2000):

Maggie Cheung’s

• Coloured dresses.
• 1950’s heels.

From music…

• Diana Ross:

• White gloves.
• Piled hair.
• Gold lamé.
• Feathers.
• Chiffon.
• Tight skirts.
• Jackets.
• Sleeveless dresses.
• Two-piece suits.
• High heels.

• Cher:

• Long straight hair.
• Tight bell-bottoms jeans.
• Midriff exposed.
• Flower-print dresses with white go-go boots.
• Always a flash of colour.
• Details such as sequins, glitter.

• Janis Joplin:

• Shopped at thrift stores and friend’s closets.
• Customized her clothes with embroidery and beading.
• Cowboy boots.
• Boho skirts.
• Tie-dye.
• Leather.
• Lots of accessories.

• Patti Smith:

• Teenage boy look.
• Tight rubber pants.
• Loose white undershirts.
• Layering cardigans.

• Debbie Harry:

• Punk-rock princess.
• Short black shorts.
• Ripped tights.
• Acid-green dresses.
• Tube tops.

• Rolling Stones:

• Tight corduroy pants.
• Velvet jackets.
• Silk shirts.
• Ruffled shirts.
• Long hair.

• Sex Pistols:

• Leather jackets with spikes.
• Torn stockings.
• Safety-pinned clothes.
• Shredded jeans.

• Tina Turner:

• Miniskirts.
• Lipsticks.
• Spiked wild hair.

• Madonna:

• Teased hair.
• Leather.
• Lace.
• Spandex.
• Bright colours.
• Ever-changing and reinvents herself over.
• Blonde ambition phase
• Marylin Monroe phase.
• Evita phase.
• Black Jewellery phase.
• Japanese Geisha phase.

• Kurt Cobain:

• Flannel shirts.
• Grunge.
• Beat up Converse All Stars.
• Dirty cardigan.
• Unwashed jeans.

Travel:

Different parts of the world inspire us.

• South East Asia:

• Lots of colours.
• Beadings.
• Sparkle.
• Texture.

• Europe:

• Eternal style.
• It’s about tradition and heritage.

• South America:

• Everyday pageantry.
• Effortless chic.

• Orient:

• Ritual and culture.
• Devotion to detail.
• Artfulness.
• Grace.

• Africa:

• Elaborate head wraps
• Organic textures.
• Ornementation is important.
• Jewels.

• United States:

• Blue jeans.
• Chic sportswear.
• Different parts of the country have different styles.

Inspiration from art

Designers and art have always come together to make something greater and get inspired from each other.

• Dali and Schiaparelli:

• The Lobster Dress inspired from the Lobster phone.

• Mondrian and St-Laurent:

• The mondrian dress

• Sprouse and Jacobs:

• Bags with graffiti on LV monogram pattern.

• Murakami and Jacobs:

• LV monogram bags in 33 different colours.

• On white or black background.
• Cherry blossom pattern.
• Smiley cartoon faces.
• Pink and yellow flowers over monograms.

Dress code:

What to wear when.

• Black tie/formal:

• Bold colours.
• Fabulous jewellery.
• Make and entrance, a statement.
• Long or cocktail dress.
• Men in tuxedo.

• White Tie:

• Ball Gown.

• Creative Black Tie:

• Theme involved.
• Make sure you don’t look too costumed.

• Cocktail Attire/Black Tie Optional/Informal/Semi-Formal:

• Short dress.
• Have fun.
• Killer heels.
• Funkier jewellery.
• Big cocktail ring.

• Dressy Casual/Smart Casual:

• Pants acceptable.
• No jeans.
• Fun tops.
• No t-shirts.

• Festive Casual:

• Same as Dressy Casual/Smart Casual but themed.
• Be wary of looking too costumed.

• Business Casual:

• Same as dressy casual.
• No low cut tops.

• Casual:

• Carte blanche
• BUT make an effort to look stylish.
• Have fun.

• On a plane:

• No sweatpants.
• Nice pants.
• Jeans.
• Lots of layers.
• Cashmere cardigan.
• Cashmere sweater.
• Cashmere scarf.
• Light trench.
• Jacket.
• Nice tote.
• Pair of sunglasses.
• Flat shoes.

• On a first date:

• Mysterious.
• Slow reveal to add intrigue.
• Focus on fabrics.
• Do not expose too much skin.
• Silk.
• Cashmere.
• Angora.
• Favourite lingerie – for you, not him, to feel good about yourself if it’s disastrous.

• Meeting the in-laws:

• No low-cut tops.
• No shredded jeans.
• Nothing too provocative.
• Do not expose lingerie or cleavage.
• Be conservative.
• Knee-length skirts.
• Cardigan.
• Do not try to change your overall style to impress them.
• Wear classic, non revealing clothes.
• Make your accessories speak for you, such as your purse, your necklace and your watch.

• Job interview:

• Nothing provocative or revealing.
• Be a little conservative.
• No need to wear a suit anymore.
• Pencil skirt.
• Button-down shirt.
• Nice heels.
• If it’s a fashion, art, entertainment company, you can put on a trendier top.
• For law firm, keep it very conservative, if you want to wear a suit, make sure it’s well tailored.
• Put a piece of personal jewellery on the suit to bring it to life.

• Underneath your garments:

• Go with colours.
• Layer it.
• Keep it feminine.
• Vintage works.
• Try garters.
• Corsets.
• Don’t use a bra as a top.
• A leopard print or lacey bra that shows a little is sexy.
• Have basic colours as your classic bras.
• Be careful with nude bras as they tend to make you look like you have a prosthetic breast, make sure they are worn when they don’t have to sneak out a little.

• Be elegant:

• Shoes, bag and coat reveal who you are.
• Go for timeless designs.
• A classic heel.
• Quilted leather bag.
• Knee or calf length coat.
• Spend money on them.
• Rich colours for pants and shirts such as camel, black, brown, ivory.
• Wear tone on tone.
• Add a coat.
• Put on some great jewellery; charm bracelet, bangles, hoops, cocktail ring, turquoise, coral or pearls.

• A wedding:

• Do not wear the same colour as the bridesmaid.
• Do not wear white.
• If it’s an evening wedding in the city, dress as you are going for a Black Tie event.
• If it’s a daytime wedding on an island, wear a sundress.
• If it’s an afternoon wedding at a country club; a simples skirt and top but accessorize it.

• Summer weekend:

• T-shirt.
• Jeans.
• Summer accessories.
• As per Jackie O. in Hyannis.
• Tousled beach hair.
• Sundresses.
• Tank tops.
• A great bathing suit.
• Flat sandals.
• Sun hat.
• L.L. Bean tote.

• Winter:

• A great coat.
• Try the coat in a funky colour, or distinct pattern.
• If you want to stick to basics, opt for a coat with a standout collar and oversized buttons.
• Clothes can be black, grey, camel, brown.
• Dare to wear ivory and white.
• Cashmere or alpaca.
• Fur coat or hat.

• Pregnant:

• Lots of jewellery; bangles, earrings, fun necklaces.
• Don’t wear big baggy clothes that will make you look bigger.
• Emphasize your belly.
• Wear fitted cashmere sweaters for winter.
• Cotton t-shirts in summer.
• Maternity jeans that are snug on hips and thighs but flare out at leg to balance the belly effect are great.
• Flat shoes only.
• Ballet flats are a helpful and trendy option.

Fashion decade by decade

1910’s:

• Fish Shape.
• Empire cut.
• Poiret:

• Liberated women from corset.
• Introduced pantaloons.

1920’s:

• Flapper.
• Bobbed hair.
• Higher hemlines.
• Lower waistlines.
• La garçonne.
• Coco Chanel:

• Jersey-knit dresses.
• LBD.
• Two-ton shoes.

Lanvin:

• Complex trimmings.
• Embroideries.
• Beaded decorations in light, clear floral colours.

Jean Patou:

• Sportswear for women.
• Knitted swimwear.
• Tennis skirt.

1930’s:

• Return to femininity.
• Glamour.
• Backless dresses.
• Nylon hosiery
• Madeleine Vionnet:

• Flowy, feminine clothes.
• Cowl neck.
• Halter tops.

Elisa Shiaparelli:

• Use of art in clothes (trompe l’oeil).
• Zippers.
• Shoulder pads.
• Buttons.
• Bright colours.

Madame Grès:

• Intricate draperies.
• Impeccable cuts.

1940’s:

• Day dresses.
• Blouses with bow details.
• Military looks.
• Christian Dior:

• Re-established Paris as a fashion hub.
• Revived Haute Couture.
• Re-introduced glamour with the “New Look” (tight waistline, stiff petticoats, billowing skirts).

Cashin:

• Imposed the boot as a fashion accessory.

McCardell:

• American sportswear concept for women.

1950’s:

• High heels.
• Pencil skirts.
• Shape and volume.
• Cristobal Balenciaga:

• Balloon dresses.
• Tunic dresses.
• Chemise dresses.
• Empire line.

Hubert de Givenchy:

• Brought us the Muse concept with Audrey Hepburn.
• Made LBD famous.
• Introduced separates.

Coco Chanel:

• Takes the “New Look” and introduces it into braided suits with golden chains.
• Costume jewellery.
• Monogrammed buttons.
• Quilted bags on chains.

1960’s:

• Mod.
• Fun.
• Revolutionary clothes.
• Short skirts.
• Psychedelic prints.
• Wild colours.
• Go-go boots.
• Dresses made of vinyl, paper, cellophane, and metal, covered in mirrors.
• Baby-doll dresses.
• Pierre Cardin:

• First ready-to-wear line.

Mary Quant:

• Youth movement.
• Introduces miniskirts.
• Hot pants.
• Launches “Twiggy”.

Yves St-Laurent:

• Opens fashion house.
• Makes safari chic.

Emilio Pucci:

• Psychedelic prints.
• Clothes for jet-set.

Paco Rabanne:

• Uses metal.
• Paper.
• Plastic on his clothes.

André Courrège:

• Brings us mini.
• Uses cutouts.
• Peepholes.
• Sheer tops.

Genereich:

• Worked with vinyl and plastic.
• Launched “Monokini”.

1970’s:

• Disco.
• Ethnic trend.
• Bell bottoms.
• Miniskirts.
• Platform shoes.
• Vivienne Westwood:

• Punk revolution.
• Dresses The Sex Pistols.

Sonia Rykiel:

• Makes knitwear fashionable.
• Uses darkblacks.
• Rhinestones.
• Long boa-like scarves.
• Crocheted hats.

Beene:

• Experiments with geometry and fashion.

Bill Blass:

• Signifies American style.

Fiorucci:

• Glam rock.
• Bright rubber boots.
• Fake fur.
• Pop art jackets.

Ralph Lauren:

• Introduces first lifestyle brand.

Calvin Klein:

• Brings us brand power by advertising.

Anne Klein:

• Introduces American women sportswear.

Kamali:

• Revolutionizes bikini with “Pull Bikini”.

1980’s:

• Decade of colour.
• Power suits.
• Japanese invasion.
• Azzedine Alaïa:

• Sexy.
• Seductive designs.
• Emphasizes figure.

Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons, Ysse Miyake:

• Japanese invasion.

Donna Karan:

• Feminine approach to ready-to-wear.

Tommy Hilfiger:

• Preppy American chic.

Bill Blass:

• Brought American sportswear to highest level.
• Adored by businesswomen and executives wives.

Perry Ellis:

• American sportswear.
• Uses colours.
• Natural fibers.

Muccia Prada:

• Produced ready-to-wear fashion that mastered “the mix”.

Christian Lacroix:

• Creates the pouf skirt.

Manolo Blahnik:

• Makes shoes as important as dresses.

Jean-Paul Gaultier:

• Brought lingerie details and made them fashionable.

1990’s:

• Minimalism.
• Simplicity.
• Grunge.
• Marc Jacobs:

• Brought grunge to catwalk.

Tom Ford for Gucci:

• Showed how to sell sex.

Gianni Versace:

• Sexy with a lifestyle to match.
• Bold clothes.

Dolce & Gabbana:

• Superfiminine clothes for modern-day women.

Roberto Cavalli:

• Rich yet hippy designs.
• Animal prints.
• Use of feathers and leather.

Ann Demeulemeester:

• Part of the Antwerp six from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.
• Combined unusual fabrics together.

Dries Van Noten:

• Part of the Antwerp six from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.
• Mixed classic designs with a highly personalized aspect.

Beirendonck:

• Part of the Antwerp six from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.
• Mixed violently divergent colours.

2000’s:

• Superbrands are born.
• Music moguls and actors as designers.
• The handbag becomes hits an all-time high in terms of importance.
• Elbaz for Lanvin:

• Brings back femininity and romance
• Uses silk.
• Pleated dresses.
• Adds satin ribbons.

Stella McCartney for Chloé:

• Girly style.
• Vintage-inspired tops.
• Sexy trousers.

John Galliano:

• Master of dramatic.
• Extravagance.
• Exaggeration.

Karl Lagerfield for Chanel:

• Re-invention of classic staples.
• Create cult of Coco LV – birth of the designer handbag.

Oscar De Larenta:

• Dresses all first Ladies regardless of political parties.
• Feminine, elegant and classy collections.

Zac Posen:

• Clothes that make an entrance.

Christian Louboutin:

• Red-soled shoe.
• Darling of A-listers.

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https://www.amazon.ca/Little-Black-Book-Style/dp/0061234907